Some 11 million people participate in a marathon around the globe, up to 4000 different marathons take place every year worldwide. Running is, after all, a lifestyle choice for people everywhere. Why choose the marathon in Tromsø, then, so far away from everything? We asked Andreas Lundin, a seasoned marathoner now working for the Midnight Sun Marathon, his face lit up as memories came rushing back: “Where do I begin?”
“You don’t run, you experience”
Andreas is convinced that the marathon experience in Tromsø stands apart. “When you run a marathon, you go through different stages,” Andreas explains. “In the beginning, you feel fit and ready to run. However, soon you start doubting yourself, and your mind starts to work against you. 42 kilometres is a huge effort for the body. But the many impressions you get along the way distract you from these negative thoughts. They make the experience a more positive one.”. Hence, it is the place itself that makes the difference.
The Midnight Sun accompanies you for 42 km
Tromsø is found well north of the Arctic Circle, some 350 km as the crow flies. The marathon takes place around midsummer, meaning that the sun is well above the horizon at midnight. The night is gone; there is daylight all the time. In summer, people in the north tend to suffer from – or enjoy – a happy insomnia, naturally keeping them up and about until well past midnight.
The somewhat odd running hours are thus very much in line with the summer state of mind, 2000 km away from the North Pole. This may take a bit of getting used to for anyone from below the Arctic Circle but certainly makes for a different running experience. Given Tromsø’s location on the northern edge of the Atlantic, sunshine is by no means guaranteed. Daylight at midnight is a given, though.
Everything starts and ends in the city centre
Tromsø’s main street is the social heart of this talkative Arctic city. It is only natural that it all begins and ends on Storgata, recently renovated. “Runners warm up in small, chatty groups. The commentator’s voice rings out, echoing off the facades, and the outdoor cafés spill out with people – even in chilly weather. Thus, the runners are sent off with a buzz of sociable energy. Nobody in town misses out on the running event.
Running as if in a Travel Brochure
According to Andreas, the cityscape of Tromsø is uplifting for a marathon runner. The run across the elegant span of the Tromsø Bridge, takes you past the bold shape of the Arctic Cathedral, as if you were running in a postcard. From the mainland side, you see the city centre — a colourful jumble of sleek new buildings and crooked old houses climbing up from the Tromsø Sound. What better way to take in these postcard icons, than by becoming part of the scene — one step at a time?
Where the city surrenders to the fjords
Soon, however, the landscape itself takes centre stage. The peaks in the distance, the fjord nearby, and patches of snow left among the greenery – it’s postcard-like and an “almost cinematic experience” – Andreas says Sweeping views of water – fjords and sounds – stretch out beneath lofty peaks in the distance. Much closer, the fragrant, light birch forest teems with life around midsummer. When the residential areas give way to the countryside, farms with green fields, wildflowers by the roadside, and grazing animals take over. This is a very different from the classic big city marathons runners are used to.
Celebrating the Marathon Spirit
The marathon takes place in the happiest time of the year — those long, golden days when no one wants to go to bed. On the way, the runners pass garden parties and people line the road waving flags and cheering everyone. The cheers aren’t reserved for the front-runners or the Norwegians — they’re for everyone taking part.
Running minds think alike
Andreas points out the sociable aspect of the run as well. After the race, adrenaline is still surging, and the runners are nowhere near ready to sleep. Even with aching feet, they come together for some relaxed post-race banter, and even a bit of celebration. In a compact city like Tromsø, it’s much easier for runners to find each other. Those who travel alone often end up heading home with new friends. After all, a journey to the edge of the world is best when shared.
Finish off with a splash
You can’t come this far and just catch a flight straight back. Naturally, the runners linger a day or two to check out the little Arctic metropolis. After the race, it’s all about chilling out — maybe a ride up the cable car, hitting a museum, and grabbing some local bites from the sea and mountains, all at a nice, easy pace. What really kickstarts recovery, though, is a dip in the sea. The water temperature is usually in the single digits even at midsummer — a real test of nerves.
Don’t make a habit of it?
For some, the Tromsø marathon is a once-in-a-lifetime experience – with new adventures waiting out there in the world. Others keep coming back, chasing that same joy all over again. If you’re up for the next step, the Polar Night Half Marathon in January offers both a perfect follow-up, and a total change of scene. In freezing temperatures and the gentle twilight of the polar night, it’s a world away from the bright, carefree days of midsummer. Maybe this is what motivates a runner to keep going all year.
Facts about Tromsø and the Midnight Sun Marathon
Tromsø is a city with some 80 000 people found about 350 km north of the Arctic Circle in the north of Norway. The distance to the North Pole is about 2000 km.
The Midnight Sun Marathon takes place in Tromsø in the third week-end of June, around Midsummer, every year.
Tromsø’s airport is well connected internationally, with direct flights to cities in central Europe as well as Oslo, Stockholm, Copenhagen and Helsinki. For updated information, click on their website. Overland transportation can be time-consuming, but an experience for the true traveller. Of particular interest is the overnight train from Stockholm to Narvik, from where there is a 5 hours’ bus connection to Tromsø, bus number 100. The legendary shipping line, Hurtigruten sails from Bergen to Tromsø in 4 days, or 24 hours from the railhead of the Norwegian train system in Bodø. Two companies, Hurtigruten and Havila, take turns in sailing the route these days.
Tromsø has a developed hospitality industry, and a large selection of hotels. However, as the Midnight Sun Marathon is very popular, it pays to book early. For a complete overview, consult the website of the local tourist board, Visit Tromsø.
In town, you can visit attractions like Polaria, the Tromsø University Museum, the Arctic Cathedral, the Polar Museum, the Botanic Garden etc. Tromsø also has an attractive downtown area.
The local tourist board, Visit Tromsø, has the most comprehensive and updated overview. For inspiration, you could read our articles on dining in Tromsø, as well as our deep-dive into the nightlife. But to put it simply: Tromsø serves up great food and drinks—you won’t be disappointed.
