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Kathrine Sørgård

Waffles make Northern Norway happy

Chance are, you’ll be eating a lot of waffles when travelling around Northern Norway. Here is a small guide where to go and what to ask for when craving that heart-shaped delight.

Well onboard the ferry, ready to cross a fjord, you’re of course heading up to the view lounge on top. Or, if the ferry is old, the worn formica and linoleum lounge under the car deck. The smell of fresh coffee reaches your nostrils, and then you’re led into temptation. A metal platter is full of newly made waffles covered in cling film. Sour cream, raspberry and strawberry jam and often brown cheese are self-service on the side. Who can resist it? When you should be out taking photographs, you end up munching waffles with jam on your chin.

  • 01Fresh waffles are ready before every departure, and they are irrestisible © Frida Xiang
  • 02Wafles, jam and sour cream. We're in heaven © Kathrine Sørgård
  • 03Lemonade and waffles with jam. Nothing better in life if you're eight years old © Katrine Sørgård
01: Fresh waffles are ready before every departure, and they are irrestisible © Frida Xiang
02: Wafles, jam and sour cream. We're in heaven © Kathrine Sørgård
03: Lemonade and waffles with jam. Nothing better in life if you're eight years old © Katrine Sørgård

Waffles are everywhere

The museum you visit may have a simple café with coffee and tea for sale. Then the accompaniment of choice if of course waffles. Sometimes, you even make the waffles yourself. If you go to a football match, the volunteering parents of the players make and sell waffles in the break. The profit of course goes to support the team. Every kind of social gathering in the north can be a waffle event.

Waffle time is banter time

At the Fiskarheimen (Fisherman’s home) on the island of Røst, the waffles are ready at9 am every day. That is of course an excellent occasion to meet the locals. On the tiny island of Myken with a handful of inhabitants, the shop is open only 2 hours a day. Then you can combine your shopping with a waffle and a banter with the locals. No waffles, no local gossip.

  • 01Waffles at Myken Island. The shop is open for two hours a day, and a few days a week, there are waffles. Then everybody meets for coffee, waffles and lots of talk © Roger Rein
  • 02This is also Myken; a windy, stormy day of winter. This when you sit down inside the local shop, have coffee and waffles and look out at the madness through the window. It usually calms down, though, so that you can walk to the nearby lighthouse.
  • 03Solid benches and worn linoleum, an old fashioned ferry cafe under the car deck © Kathrine Sørgård
01: Waffles at Myken Island. The shop is open for two hours a day, and a few days a week, there are waffles. Then everybody meets for coffee, waffles and lots of talk © Roger Rein
02: This is also Myken; a windy, stormy day of winter. This when you sit down inside the local shop, have coffee and waffles and look out at the madness through the window. It usually calms down, though, so that you can walk to the nearby lighthouse.
03: Solid benches and worn linoleum, an old fashioned ferry cafe under the car deck © Kathrine Sørgård

Seagull eggs make good waffles

Without eggs, you cannot make waffles. In Northern Norway, eggs from seabirds have always been a welcome addition in the nesting season in May-June. Everybody knows you can only take one or two eggs from each nest, be it a seagull or an eider duck. Then the hatching process will go un undisturbed. Take them all, and the birds may give up the nesting process for this year.

Many kinds of eggs can be used

More surprising are cod eggs, or cod roe.  In January-February, cod fishing is in full swing. Then loads of cod roe is available. It works just as well as bird’s eggs for waffles, and you can make regular sweet waffles. They taste just as good as chicken egg waffles, and there is no salty or seafood taste to it.

  • 01"Høna med ægg" - unsugared waffles with boiled eggs. Photographed in the counter at "Kaffekverna" ("The Coffee Grinder") inside a shopping mall in Sandnessjøen © Kaffekverna
  • 02"Kørv" is somewhere between a sausage and meat loaf. At Frk. Lovise in Sandnessjøen, it's a hit with the waffles © Frk. Lovise
01: "Høna med ægg" – unsugared waffles with boiled eggs. Photographed in the counter at "Kaffekverna" ("The Coffee Grinder") inside a shopping mall in Sandnessjøen © Kaffekverna
02: "Kørv" is somewhere between a sausage and meat loaf. At Frk. Lovise in Sandnessjøen, it's a hit with the waffles © Frk. Lovise

Toppings vary

Jam is very popular on waffles; supermarket bough raspberry or strawberry, or if you’re good at berry picking; trollkrem – lingonberries whipped with sugar and eggwhite, or cloudberries. Sour cream is a favourite for many, as is the Norwegian brown cheese. A less-know and very northern variety is gomme – a dairy product reminiscent of cottage cheese, but with a distinctly sweet taste.

Savoury waffles fill you up

Just like there are savoury pancakes, you can also make savoury waffles. Then you just leave out the sugar from the batter. In parts of Helgeland, you can get “høna med ægg”  (“chicken with egg”). Another favourite filling is “kørv”, a sort of hybrid between a sausage and a meatloaf. The Jekt Trade Museum in Bodø is one of our favourites; they serve a variety of toppings, including stockfish.

  • 01Waffles with gomme, that cottage cheese - like dairy product © Frk. Lovise/Sandnessjøen
  • 02The little summer cafe at Hamningberg serves coffee on a plastic tablecloth the few weeks it's open © Trym Ivar Bergsmo
01: Waffles with gomme, that cottage cheese – like dairy product © Frk. Lovise/Sandnessjøen
02: The little summer cafe at Hamningberg serves coffee on a plastic tablecloth the few weeks it's open © Trym Ivar Bergsmo
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Written by Knut Hansvold
March 24, 2022
Last updated August 19, 2026
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