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Andre Askeland

Come to Harstad for relaxed Northern Lights hunting

Harstad is a friendly, beautiful, welcoming and decidedly untouristy city right under the Northern Lights oval. Come here for Northern everyday life and hunting the Northern Lights in a stress-free way

Directly beneath the Northern Lights oval, in a sheltered spot by a beautiful fjord and surrounded by snow-covered forests and mountains, you’ll find Harstad.

  • 01Winter night with northern lights over Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 02Northern Lights in green with hints of violet over the centre of Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 03The Northern Lights swirl from the Folkeparken hills over the centre of Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 04On a quiet autumn evening, the Northern Lights appear over the harbor terminal in Harstad © Arne Widding
01: Winter night with northern lights over Harstad © Arne Widding
02: Northern Lights in green with hints of violet over the centre of Harstad © Arne Widding
03: The Northern Lights swirl from the Folkeparken hills over the centre of Harstad © Arne Widding
04: On a quiet autumn evening, the Northern Lights appear over the harbor terminal in Harstad © Arne Widding

Its attractive, colourful city centre, important historic sites, surprisingly vibrant gourmet scene, and lively cultural calendar make it a welcoming new discovery.

Relatively few visitors come to Harstad in winter, but for the independent traveller, the city offers a chance to experience northern local life and seek the Northern Lights in a relaxed, hassle-free setting.”

Set sail for the Northern Lights

Harstad has one of the most original Northern Lights options: sailing. A couple of sailing enthusiasts invite you onboard their sailboat, and you glide silently into the night.

  • 01Green rays of Northern Lights over a beach just north of Harstad © Jan Schmitt
  • 02Northern Lights from Mount Keipen, or Aunfjellet, with the peaks of the Grytøya Island right under © Jan Schmitt
  • 03A late autumn night, there are northern lights over the 18th c. farmhouse of Elgsnes © Jan Schmitt
  • 04The night has fallen in Harstad, and the Northern Lights are an opportunity © Jan Schmitt
01: Green rays of Northern Lights over a beach just north of Harstad © Jan Schmitt
02: Northern Lights from Mount Keipen, or Aunfjellet, with the peaks of the Grytøya Island right under © Jan Schmitt
03: A late autumn night, there are northern lights over the 18th c. farmhouse of Elgsnes © Jan Schmitt
04: The night has fallen in Harstad, and the Northern Lights are an opportunity © Jan Schmitt

The mandatory waiting time is spent looking at stars and distant lights, listening to stories from the hosts’ circumnavigation of the globe, and sipping hot drinks. Imagine seeing the Aurora dance over the rigging and shrouds, with the lights from Harstad and the little villages around as a string of pearls in the distance.

Your hosts take you where the weather conditions are best in the fjord system around the Vågsfjord – and for you, it’s effortless and in tune with the sea.

  • 01Northern Lights in strips towards Senja © Elisabeth Paulsen
  • 02Northern Lights towards the sunset © Elisabeth Paulsen
  • 03All of a sudden, the Northern Lights are there © Emmet Sparling / Seil Bifrost
  • 04The Northern Lights are flooding over the Grytøya peaks © Emmet Sparling / Seil Bifrost
01: Northern Lights in strips towards Senja © Elisabeth Paulsen
02: Northern Lights towards the sunset © Elisabeth Paulsen
03: All of a sudden, the Northern Lights are there © Emmet Sparling / Seil Bifrost
04: The Northern Lights are flooding over the Grytøya peaks © Emmet Sparling / Seil Bifrost

Find the Northern Lights between fjords and mountains

Aurora is a lady with moodswings. Sometimes, snow clouds clog the horizon, or untimely rain comes in with the Gulf Stream. The sky is smothered by clouds, and it all seems hopeless. Then it can be difficult to imagine that there could be clear skies only a short drive away – and a good northern lights guide with an insight into weather patterns can find some clear skies.

The maze-like geography of the Harstad area, with fjords, mountains, and islands, means that the weather can vary considerably within a short distance. Aurora hunts involve more effort, but the hit rate is higher than at a fixed location. Hot drinks, sweet treats, and a bit of guiding around the area shorten the wait.

  • 01View from the mountain north of Harstad towards the northern lights dancing over the peaks of Grytøya © Arne Widding
  • 02Northern Lights Night on a mountaintop north of Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 03Frosty night with Northern Lights in the forest near Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 04A band of Northern Lights over Harstad, viewed towards the southeast © Arne Widding
01: View from the mountain north of Harstad towards the northern lights dancing over the peaks of Grytøya © Arne Widding
02: Northern Lights Night on a mountaintop north of Harstad © Arne Widding
03: Frosty night with Northern Lights in the forest near Harstad © Arne Widding
04: A band of Northern Lights over Harstad, viewed towards the southeast © Arne Widding

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Harstad

Set Sail for the Northern Lights in Harstad

Harstad

Look out for the architecture when wandering around Harstad

Architecture
Harstad

Where do you see the Northern Lights in Harstad?

Attractions

See the Northern Lights on your own

In Harstad, spotting the Northern Lights on your own is easy and safe. Dress warmly, and explore by foot, snowshoes, skis, or car. Reflective items, a headlamp, a flask of coffee, and a snack (like the Norwegian hiking favourite, Kvikk Lunsj) are all handy to bring along.

Good places to watch the lights abound around Harstad

For a simple night walk, follow the coastal path from the city centre to Trondenes, where you can leave the city lights behind and explore near the historic 13th-century church.

For a higher vantage point, head up to the TV tower northwest of the city – great for unobstructed Northern Lights views. Gangsåstoppen, a small hill south of the centre, offers a full view over Harstad’s lights and makes for excellent photos if conditions allow.

Lastly, Maistua cabin provides a cosy shelter, while the area around it offers scenic views and easy walks in most winter conditions.

  • 01Moving © Jan Schmitt
  • 02© Jan Schmitt
  • 03© Jan Schmitt
  • 04Northern lights at the autumn lake © Jan Schmitt
01: Moving © Jan Schmitt
02: © Jan Schmitt
03: © Jan Schmitt
04: Northern lights at the autumn lake © Jan Schmitt

Explore winter landscapes in daylight

The short winter day must be used to the maximum, and in Harstad absolute beginners can learn to play in the snow. Snowshoeing requires no skill or training; it’s basically just hiking. With a guide, you do an easy hike uphill to Mount Keipen, from where there is a commanding view across the fjord to mountains and islands.

Another option is to learn Norway’s national sport. A guide takes you to easy trails in the Folkeparken – an area of forests and great views just above the city centre. A tour in Norway always involves an al fresco coffee break with a sweet reward.

Harstad is part of the traditional territory of the Sámi people – the Icelandic sagas mention the presence of them in the Viking age. The local reindeer herders of the area invite you to visit them in a camp, where you get to say hello to the reindeer, feed them and sit inside the lavvu – the tent – and listen to joiggus – the old Sámi chant. You also get to hear about the daily life over a light lunch.

  • 01Church of Trondenes in winter dusk © Arne Widding
  • 02Winter landscape just outside Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 03Moonlight in Harstad – with the island of Grytøya in the background to the right © Arne Widding
  • 04The winter day makes its exit in shades of blue and gold in Harstad © Arne Widding
01: Church of Trondenes in winter dusk © Arne Widding
02: Winter landscape just outside Harstad © Arne Widding
03: Moonlight in Harstad – with the island of Grytøya in the background to the right © Arne Widding
04: The winter day makes its exit in shades of blue and gold in Harstad © Arne Widding

See the city on foot with a local guide

A walk around Harstad is a delight, with colourful houses dating from every decade since the late 19th century in an attractive hotchpotch. The view towards the fjord and distant mountains is omnipresent.

An informal guided tour on foot with a local guide will take you to some of the fine houses in town, to the best viewpoints with photo ops, and through Harstad’s history. Of particular interest is the harbour promenade with its many art installations.

  • 01Pink winter light over Harstad, seen from the hill of Gansåstoppen © Arne Widding
  • 02Locals in Harstad are not stopped by a little snow © Arne Widding
  • 03A heavy snowfall in Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 04Winter's gaze from Harstad towards the Trondenes Peninsula and on to Senja Island © Arne Widding
01: Pink winter light over Harstad, seen from the hill of Gansåstoppen © Arne Widding
02: Locals in Harstad are not stopped by a little snow © Arne Widding
03: A heavy snowfall in Harstad © Arne Widding
04: Winter's gaze from Harstad towards the Trondenes Peninsula and on to Senja Island © Arne Widding

Explore Harstad by e-bike or cross-country skis – day or night


Yes, even in winter, you can explore Harstad by e-bike! In town, you can hire sturdy e-bikes with studded tires, so you can ride through town and villa areas or venture out to scenic spots like Trondenes and Røkenes. Daytime rides offer stunning landscapes, while evening outings might even give you a chance to see the Northern Lights.

If skiing is more your style, cross-country skis are also available for hire. Beginners can enjoy floodlit trails around the city, while experienced skiers can head to Kvæfjordeidet for a darker, starlit experience with the possibility of aurora sightings.

Harstad is the historic heart of the north

Although Harstad didn’t receive its city charter until 1903, its history runs deep. During the Viking Age, some of the region’s most powerful chieftains resided around Harstad. The 13th-century Trondenes Church, the charming 250-year-old farmhouse at Røkenes, and numerous other sites all give a strong sense of history in the area.

Trondenes Church is the world’s northernmost medieval church

Built in the early 13th century in early Gothic style, Trondenes Church saw construction pauses that extended its completion to around 1440. Inside, it’s richly adorned with three Gothic triptychs from Germany, a neoclassical organ, and baroque furnishings. Around the church, remnants of 12th-century fortifications remain, built to protect an earlier 12th-century wooden church.

  • 01A mediaeval longhouse and a stave church under the Northern Lights at Trondenes near Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 02The main building at the Mediaeval Farm of Trondenes © Steve Nilsen
  • 03The point of Trondenes, the old church, the Historical Centre and the Grytøya Island peaks © Harriet S. Olsen/Sør-Troms Museum
  • 04The church of Trondenes in Harstad on a cold winter evening © Arne Widding
01: A mediaeval longhouse and a stave church under the Northern Lights at Trondenes near Harstad © Arne Widding
02: The main building at the Mediaeval Farm of Trondenes © Steve Nilsen
03: The point of Trondenes, the old church, the Historical Centre and the Grytøya Island peaks © Harriet S. Olsen/Sør-Troms Museum
04: The church of Trondenes in Harstad on a cold winter evening © Arne Widding

Trondenes Church is the world’s northernmost medieval church

Harstad

A Soviet prisoner of war tells his story

World War II
Harstad

Historical walks on Trondenes

World War II

Trondenes Historic Centre Brings History to Life

The Trondenes Historic Centre covers the full story of the area. A 2,500-year-old bronze necklace, a large Iron Age cauldron, and countless other artefacts are presented in easy-to-follow exhibits. Detailed reconstructions of a medieval turf house and stave church can also be admired on the hillside above.

The darkest chapter is the most recent, told through Konstantin Seredintsev’s diary, recounting his mistreatment and death in 1943. The remains of his prison camp – “we were brought here to die” – are visible near the church when the ground is snow-free.

The Adolf Gun is A WWII Giant

Trondenes overlooks the waterway into Narvik, where iron ore from Sweden is exported. During the war, Nazi Germany wanted to block any Allied ships from entering, so massive guns were built here by Soviet forced labourers, including the “Adolf” gun. Konstantin was among them. Today, this giant gun, which can hit targets up to 42 km away, is accessible on organised tours through Explore Harstad.

  • 01Winter's day in Harstad - with a full view of the Grytøya island peaks © Arne Widding
  • 02It has snowed heavily in Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 03The snow falls over downtown Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 04Winter's gaze from Harstad towards the Trondenes Peninsula and on to Senja Island © Arne Widding
01: Winter's day in Harstad – with a full view of the Grytøya island peaks © Arne Widding
02: It has snowed heavily in Harstad © Arne Widding
03: The snow falls over downtown Harstad © Arne Widding
04: Winter's gaze from Harstad towards the Trondenes Peninsula and on to Senja Island © Arne Widding

Harstad is a small city with a lively centre

Harstad is home to around 25,000 people. Its compact centre is a charming blend of elegant art nouveau buildings, traditional Norwegian wooden houses from the same period, and modern structures. By day, the city offers cosy cafes, good shopping, and a surprisingly strong selection of high-quality dining.

Seek out unique shops

Is there still fun in shopping when everything’s available online? Harstad has a few spots worth a visit. “Prøvetrykk” (Test Print) creates custom posters, postcards, or coasters with your own design.

“Vakre Vene” caters to the mature woman, while Bakerinnen – the bakeress – is known for her creative take on classic cakes, which you can enjoy there or take away. Skafferiet is a delicatessen with local specialities, including great gift options to bring home.

  • 01Winter i Harstad with the Richard Kaarbøs plass in the front © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
  • 02Blue midwinter light in Harstad: In front the city centre, in the far back the peaks of Rolla island © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
  • 03The catamaran terminal in Harstad in drifting snow. HThe building, housing the port authorities, orginates from 1920 © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
  • 04Winter image in grey and blue from Harstad. The city is in the centre, and the Trondenes peninsula juts out to the right. Behind it, you see the waterway of Toppsundet, and a at the far right the peaks of Grytøya island © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
01: Winter i Harstad with the Richard Kaarbøs plass in the front © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
02: Blue midwinter light in Harstad: In front the city centre, in the far back the peaks of Rolla island © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
03: The catamaran terminal in Harstad in drifting snow. HThe building, housing the port authorities, orginates from 1920 © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune
04: Winter image in grey and blue from Harstad. The city is in the centre, and the Trondenes peninsula juts out to the right. Behind it, you see the waterway of Toppsundet, and a at the far right the peaks of Grytøya island © Øivind Arvola / Harstad kommune

Kvæfjordkaka is a sweet temptation

Norway’s national cake – we like to declare‘national’ things – is called Kvæfjordkaka. It’s made with layers of rum, vanilla, and meringue, created by two sisters from nearby Kvæfjord who ran a pâtisserie in Harstad. Now beloved throughout Norway, it’s a favourite at weddings, baptisms, and confirmations.

The tourist board suggests trying the classic kvæfjordkake at Trondenes Historical Centre’s café. For an inventive twist, try Bakerinnen. Or, like us, try both.

Harstad is the gourmet capital of the north

Some people come to Harstad just for the food. The young chefs at Umami are celebrated for their precisely crafted menus of local ingredients – be sure to reserve a table here as early as possible.

For a more relaxed vibe, Bark offers a menu that blends world flavours with local traditions. Equally cosy and popular among locals is Alo (dialect for “fuss” or “noise”).

Gois brings the tastes of Asia to the north. The historic atmosphere of Røkenes farm makes it worth the trip out of town.

Tapp Bar serves up microbrews from across Northern Norway, offering sustenance of a different kind. And for good coffee and croissants, Esencia’s playful Paris-meets-Norwegian-hut interior is the perfect setting.

  • 01Thanks to studded tyres, you don't slide © Junit Weber
  • 02It is surprisingly easy, even on snow © Junit Weber
  • 03Over frozen grounds © Junit Weber
  • 04Hiking with e-bikes © Junit Weber
01: Thanks to studded tyres, you don't slide © Junit Weber
02: It is surprisingly easy, even on snow © Junit Weber
03: Over frozen grounds © Junit Weber
04: Hiking with e-bikes © Junit Weber
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Harstad has a mild, snowy Winter climate

Though it sits some 300 km north of the Arctic Circle, Harstad’s winter climate is relatively mild. In the coldest months, average temperatures hover around -3°C. The Vesterålen archipelago buffers Harstad from ocean storms, providing a sheltered location. Weather varies from cold spells reaching -10 to -15°C, to snow showers and occasional rain. Snow is generally reliable from sometime in December through mid to late April.

Harstad offers comfortable hotels

In central Harstad, you’ll find several mid-range to first-class hotels. During weekends and quieter winter periods, favourable rates are often available. A couple of budget options also exist. The local tourist board’s website lists charming spots outside the city, which make excellent Northern Lights viewing points.

  • 01The winter day is soon over in Harstad – as seen from the Gansåstoppen Hill © Arne Widding
  • 02The snow falls over downtown Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 03Christmas snow falling in Harstad © Arne Widding
  • 04Christmas atmosphere on its way into Harstad © Arne Widding
01: The winter day is soon over in Harstad – as seen from the Gansåstoppen Hill © Arne Widding
02: The snow falls over downtown Harstad © Arne Widding
03: Christmas snow falling in Harstad © Arne Widding
04: Christmas atmosphere on its way into Harstad © Arne Widding
Harstad

Travel by your palate around Harstad

Food in Northern Norway
Harstad

Umami in Harstad serves the fifth taste

Food in Northern Norway
Harstad

Kvæfjordkake is Norway’s national cake

Eat and stay

Getting to Harstad and around is easy

Harstad/Narvik Airport is found some 40 minutes from Harstad. Here there are direct connections to Oslo with several airlines. An airport express bus goes into Harstad. One can also go by train from Oslo through Trondheim to Fauske. From there, there is a bus connection to Harstad. However, this will take around 24 hours. Check public transport by bus and train on the EnTur website. There is also the option to take the train from Stockholm through Kiruna til Narvik. From there, it’s a two hour bus to Harstad. Finally, the legendary Hurtigruten shipping line, these days sharing the service with Havila, sails for 3 and a half days from Bergen, calling at Harstad in the early morning.

Combine Harstad with other destinations in the north

Many winter travellers, however, visit Harstad as a stop on the way between various other destinations in the north. From Tromsø there is a 3 hour catamaran ride to Harstad, with 2-4 departures a day. Narvik and the railhead of the Ofotbanen railway into Sweden is reached by bus in a good 2 hours. The bus to Sortland in the Vesterålen Islands is a short affair including a little ferry crossing. From there, there is an onward connection to Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands.

  • 01The archipelago of Bjarkøy is full of unexplored beauty © Andre Askeland
  • 02Wide views in crisp clear autumn air from Bjarkøya Island © André Askeland
  • 03Worn and weathered at the island of Bjarkøya © André Askeland
  • 04Late Autumn in Bjarkøy Island, with a view to snowy mountains in Grytøya island © Andre Askeland
01: The archipelago of Bjarkøy is full of unexplored beauty © Andre Askeland
02: Wide views in crisp clear autumn air from Bjarkøya Island © André Askeland
03: Worn and weathered at the island of Bjarkøya © André Askeland
04: Late Autumn in Bjarkøy Island, with a view to snowy mountains in Grytøya island © Andre Askeland
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Northern Lights

Facts about Winter in Harstad

Harstad is a city about 300 km/200 miles north of the Arctic Circle in Northern Norway. It is found between Bodø, the Lofoten Islands and Tromsø. The city of Narvik with its railhead is less than 2 hours to the east.

Harstad/Narvik Airport is found a good hour east of Harstad. Harstad/Narvik (EVE) has direct connections to international destinations like London, Zurich and Milan parts of the year. There are moreover several connections a day to Oslo with several airlines. One can take a 24 hours combo of train and bus from Oslo. The EnTur app/website has prices and hours.

There is a comfortable catamaran connection between the cities every day, with from 2 to 4 departures. Check out the EnTur app for more information.

There are several connections. One goes south to the Tjeldsundbrua bridge, where you join the Narvik-Svolvær bus. A scenic alternative is to go from Harstad to Sortland, change bus there and go to Svolvær. This involves two short ferry crossings. EnTur has hours and prices.

Harstad has several good standard hotels. There are also budget options. Look at Visit Harstad‘s website for a full overview.

The website of Explore Harstad has a full overview of hotels, restaurants, activities and attractions in Harstad and the area around.

Explore Harstad has a selection of Northern Lights tours and daytime tours. For the sailing trip, contact Seil Bifrost.

  • 01The sun returns to Harstad in mid January after the Polar Night © Bernd Kossmann
  • 02At Keipen on snowshoes for that wide view © Bernd Kossmann
  • 03From Mount Keipen, the view is wide. Come here in the short winter's day, and return at night to look for Northern Lights © Torstein Lund Sperstad
  • 04In the snowy forest around Mount Aunfjellet ©Bernd Kossmann/Arcticconcepts
01: The sun returns to Harstad in mid January after the Polar Night © Bernd Kossmann
02: At Keipen on snowshoes for that wide view © Bernd Kossmann
03: From Mount Keipen, the view is wide. Come here in the short winter's day, and return at night to look for Northern Lights © Torstein Lund Sperstad
04: In the snowy forest around Mount Aunfjellet ©Bernd Kossmann/Arcticconcepts
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Tromsø

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Written by Knut Hansvold
April 15, 2022
Last updated August 19, 2026
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